Festa dos Tabuleiros: Paper Flowers Everywhere

Once every four years, the city of Tomar metamorphoses into a massive garden of paper flowers and decorations. The Festa dos Tabuleiros (Festival of Trays) brings in thousands of spectators from all over the world – including the Portuguese President – to witness this beautiful transformation. It is believed to be one of the oldest celebrations in Portugal still in existence, dating back to the late 13th century or early 14th century.

2019 just happens to be one of those fourth years, and all the photos here are from this year’s celebrations.

The main event is a massive parade, where women carry large, vertical trays on their heads that are decorated with paper flowers, 30 loaves of bread, and pieces of wheat. They are essentially offerings that combine Catholic religious tradition with some pagan elements. It is believed that the trays only became a part of the celebration in the 16th century, as their designs have a distinct Manueline (the dominant 16th century Portuguese architectural style) look about them.

An average tray weighs approximately 15 kg (33 lbs)! The tray is supposed to be the same height as the woman carrying it. Not only do these women have to balance these trays on their heads, they also walk around the city while doing so. Each woman wears a white dress with a sash. The different colors on the sashes represent the different towns in Tomar’s vicinity, which participate in the celebration. Tomar’s color is red, which is why you’ll see so many women wearing red sashes. If and when a woman gets too tired from carrying the tray, her male companion (each woman is escorted by a man) takes over and carries it until the end. Above is a video showing the main parade and other details from the festival.

Originally, the Festa dos Tabuleiros was a celebration to the Holy Spirit, which is why white doves often feature on top of the trays. A cross, especially the Cruz de Cristo, a particular type of cross often seen in Tomar (see image below) is also an acceptable topper on the tray. All the trays are blessed before the parade. The loaves of bread were traditionally handed out to the poor the day after the parade was over. A bull was also killed and the meat given to the poor. Nowadays, no animals are killed and the bread from the trays isn’t distributed to the poor. However – and this is a little-known fact – if you register with the town hall in Tomar ahead of time, you are still able to receive a pack of meat, bread, and bottled wine!

There is also a smaller (and much cuter) children’s version of the parade, with miniature trays, which usually takes place the weekend before the main parade. In the days running up to the parade, there are outdoor concerts, traditional games being played, and art exhibitions. The city really comes alive (and yes, perhaps gets a bit too busy!).

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When you walk down the streets of Tomar during the Festa dos Tabuleiros, you’ll find yourself in an urban garden. What are normally quaint little streets, are now colorful, flowery tableaus. Women spend months making these paper flowers by hand but the result is completely worth it, as anyone experiencing the festival in person will attest to.

So the question now is: will you be heading to the next Festa dos Tabuleiros in 2023?