Lisbon Under Stars

I had been wanting to attend the Lisbon Under Stars immersive experience for a while now (and managed to go on the second-to-last night of the show!) I had loved the Van Gogh Alive immersive experience and expected this to be similar. What was unique about this experience was that it took place in the iconic Convento do Carmo: a late 14th/early 15th century convent that, like much of Lisbon, was destroyed in the earthquake of 1755. The Convento do Carmo was never fully rebuilt and today it is roofless (hence the name “Lisbon Under Stars”) and is home to the Museu Arqueológico do Carmo or Carmo Archaeological Museum.

The Lisbon Under Stars experience had already taken place before, in 2018 and 2020, and returned again this summer. And hopefully it’ll be back again soon! It combines an impressive light show displayed against the Convent’s walls, with music of various genres such as orchestral, choir, and fado, and interpretative dance. It tells the 630-year history (in 60 minutes) of the Carmo Convent, as narrated by the personified “Convent” herself (the main female dancer). It focuses on specific key periods in Lisbon’s history, such as the Batalha de Aljubarrota – one of Portugal’s most famous battles – and how it inspired the building of the Convent.

I often jest that Lisbonites are still traumatized by the 1755 earthquake that destroyed the capital. But in all seriousness: that event dramatically and forever changed the city: buildings such as the Convento do Carmo and the Igreja de São Domingos still scattered across the capital today, which were destroyed that day, are a daily reminder of a day of pure horror. To me, one of the most emotive parts of the Lisbon Under Stars experience was seeing the destruction of the Convent with the earthquake, followed by the fires which broke out in the city as a result of the earthquake, and which were both subsequently followed by a tsunami. It was, truly, a horrific day. The experience gives 21st century visitors a glimpse into that day.

The show takes you across the centuries, including famous 19th century writers, and culminating in the 20th century with fado music from the likes of Portugal’s favorite and most famous singer, Amália Rodrigues, and contemporary fado singer, Mariza. I was touched by how they listed out some of the names of the heroes who gave their lives during the colonial wars. The show ends with a beautiful, starry display and Mariza singing us goodbye. You leave the ruins feeling more in touch with the city, more connected to its history, and – unsurprisingly – feeling quite small: knowing that the Convento do Carmo will be standing here long after you and I have died, just as it has continued to stand, under the Portuguese stars, for over 630 years.

The only negative aspect of the show was that you had to sit on stone floors for the entire experience, which isn’t the most comfortable. However, if you are older, they will provide you with chairs for your comfort. Once you leave the Convento do Carmo after learning about its history, you walk into the streets of Lisbon with its lights and late night cafés and restaurants and people walking along the calçada portuguesa… and you can’t help but appreciate the beauty of city a little bit more.

*Update: For my readers who are interested in experiencing this for yourselves, the show will resume on the 25th of August, 2022.